From the island anchorage at Pulau Gofa, it is about 50nm south to the Spice Islands of Banda, where we head next. In the wind shadow of the large Maluku island of Seram, it seems we will have to motor the entire way, so decide this should be another overnight trip so that we arrive in the morning with opportunity to find a suitable place for the anchor.
The trip across was easy, and the high volcano of Gulung Api that rises out of the harbour could be seen in the moon light from halfway across. In the daylight, the high peak of the volcano seemed to be snagging the clouds out of the air, as there seems to be a little cloud permanently attached to the top.
The group of islands at Banda are the caldera of an ancient volcano that rose out the middle of the 7000 meter deep Banda Sea. Once ashore in the town of Banda Neira, the influence of Europeans is obvious.
The Portuguese began trading here almost 500 years ago, before the Dutch VOC company came in in the early 1600s and took control. That began a violent period culminating in the massacre of the elders of the community, after which the Dutch dominated the locals who became the slaves of the Dutch plantation owners producing Nutmeg for trade. In those days, nutmeg was ore valuable than gold. At the time of independence in 1949 with the formation of the Indonesian republic, Banda had attempted its own independence, but is now tourist destination for a short season, and a sleepy little village for the rest of the year.
We have visited in the off season, and there are not many other Westerners around. We spent about a week here sight seeing over the group of islands, and it was one of the nicest experiences of Indonesian culture we have had on the trip.
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